Azelaic acid vs glycolic acid, which should you use to treat hyperpigmentation?

So you’re starting to see dark spots on your skin. Maybe it’s from that hormonal breakout a few months ago, or sun exposure that didn’t spare your melanin-rich skin. 

Either way, you’ve done your research and discovered that both azelaic acid and glycolic acid work for hyperpigmentation. Now you’re at a crossroads, not knowing which one to opt for.

We got you? Grab a cup of tea and get comfy, because we’re breaking down these two powerful acids, how they work, what makes these skincare products different from each other, and how to know which one your skin needs.

Key Takeaways: Azelaic Acid vs Glycolic Acid

Both azelaic acid and glycolic acid work for hyperpigmentation. However, they target hyperpigmentation differently.

Azelaic acid regulates melanin production in pigmented areas while glycolic acid gently exfoliates/sheds off dead skin cells to reveal a brighter skin tone. More so, azelaic acid is best for sensitive skin, acne marks, melasma, and deep pigment issues. 

Glycolic acid is great for exfoliating dull skin and mild surface discolouration.

Overall, whichever you choose to use, start slow. Be consistent and always wear sunscreen because using acids increases your sensitivity to UV radiation. 

Let’s Start With Azelaic Acid: What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that’s naturally found in grains like barley and wheat. Here’s what makes azelaic acid great for hyperpigmentation, especially for melanin-rich skin:

• It targets post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (those stubborn dark marks after acne).
• It helps reduce melanin production where it’s uneven.
• It’s also anti-inflammatory, making it great for acne-prone or sensitive skin, among other amazing benefits.

Did you know dermatologists often prescribe azelaic acid to treat melasma, a notoriously stubborn pigmentation concern that affects many people of colour. 

In simple terms, azelaic acid is one of the best acids for treating hyperpigmentation, like dark spots, especially in melanin-rich skin.

Not to worry, soon you’ll discover how to use azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation. But first, let’s get some insight on what glycolic acid is and what it does.

So, What is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is an exfoliant (alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Glycolic acid gently exfoliates/sheds off dead skin cells to reveal a brighter skin tone

Here’s how it works for hyperpigmentation

• It boosts cell turnover.
• It fades dark spots by gently exfoliating the surface.
• It makes your skin feel baby smooth with consistent use.

Amazing benefits, right?

But it can be a bit harsh for those with sensitive or reactive skin. Plus, for deeper hyperpigmentation (like hormonal melasma or post-acne marks in darker skin tones), glycolic acid may not go deep enough on its own.

Moment of Truth: Which One is Better 

Well, here’s what you need to know;

Azelaic Acid: What it is and How it works for Hyperpigmentation

• Type of acid: Dicarboxylic acid (gentle, multi-tasking acid)
• Skincare issues it works for: Deeper pigment issues, acne, redness, and rosacea
• How it works: Regulates melanin production, reducing the appearance of dark spots and discolouration. It targets overactive pigment-producing cells without affecting the surrounding skin tone
• Skin type: All skin types because it’s gentle
• Melanin-skin friendly: YES

Glycolic Acid: What It Is and How It Works for Hyperpigmentation

• Type of acid: Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)  
• Skincare issues it works for: Surface-level dark spots, Texture, and dullness
• Skin type: Can be harsh for sensitive skin
• Melanin-skin friendly: To be used with caution

 

Azelaic Acid vs Glycolic Acid: Which One Should You Use for Hyperpigmentation?

If you’re dealing with stubborn, deep pigmentation issues  (like melasma or post-acne marks)?

Go with azelaic acid. It works at the source of excess melanin, not just the top layer. Plus, it’s gentle, even if your skin is reactive or sensitive.

In a nutshell, if you’ve been scared of trying acids because your skin reacts easily, azelaic acid is your safe zone.

If your main concern is surface dullness, mild sun spots, or textured skin?

Glycolic acid might be your best bet. However, use with caution, especially if you’re new to using skincare actives (acids).

Can You Use Both Azelaic Acid and Glycolic Acid Together?

Yes, it’s possible to use both azelaic acid and glycolic acid together. But this can be tricky.

As skincare experts, we’ve seen cases where combining acids leads to irritation and a damaged skin barrier.

So, we do not recommend using both azelaic acid and glycolic acid in the same routine. Instead, use them on alternate days.

For instance, use azelaic acid 2-3 times a week, at night only. (say Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) 

Then use glycolic acid on alternate days. Nighttime too. (say Tuesday and Saturdays)

But if your skin is new to acids or you’re prone to irritation? We highly recommend you stick to just one, and guess which we recommend? Dang! Azelaic Acid Serum

Why Dang! Azelaic Acid Serum is a No-Brainer (Especially for Melanin-Rich Skin)

If you’ve made it this far, chances are you’re leaning towards azelaic acid, and we love that for you.

Our Dang! Azelaic Acid Serum isn’t just effective. It’s intentional skincare for people of colour, created with the unique needs of melanin-skin in mind.

• Gently and effectively fades hyperpigmentation without irritation
• Infused with soothing ingredients to support skin barrier health
• Pocket-friendly for your skincare budget (luxury without the heavy price tag)
• Targets multiple skincare concerns at once

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Want clear and glowing skin that doesn’t require filters and heavy makeup? Try the Dang! Azelaic Acid Serum here

Final Thoughts 

Hyperpigmentation can be tricky, especially for dark skin. However, choosing the right skincare uniquely crafted for dark skin makes all the difference.

In a nutshell, when it comes to treating hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones, azelaic acid remains the safest and effective treatment, according to this clinical study.

More so, as you continue to grow in your skincare journey, you’ll begin to realise there are several skincare products for hyperpigmentation for black skin.

The trick is to listen to your skin and focus on what works for your skin.

In some cases, we’ve seen that combining certain acids brings about enhanced benefit, allowing you to target multiple skincare concerns simultaneously.

For instance, there’s a way to combine azelaic acid, niacinamide, and tretinoin to achieve faster and more balanced results. But remember, consistency is key, and so is guidance.

Always consult with a skincare expert before mixing actives, especially when dealing with melanin-rich skin that requires extra care.

Your skin deserves patience, the right products, and a routine tailored to you. Trust the process, stay informed, and most importantly, be kind to your skin.

FAQs: Azelaic Acid vs Glycolic Acid

Can I use azelaic acid every day?

Despite being a very gentle acid, we do not recommend using it daily, especially for first timers.

This is because individual reactions to this acid may vary. So we recommend using it 2-3 times weekly to see how your skin reacts.

If you’re just starting. Then you can increase frequency as your skin becomes more acquainted with the acid.

Is there anything you shouldn’t use with azelaic acid?

Yes, you shouldn’t use azelaic acid with acids like benzoyl peroxide, as this combo can be extremely drying.

Do you purge on azelaic acid?

It’s possible to experience mild purging when using azelaic acid. This may come in the form of an increase in breakouts, which usually subsides within 2- 4 weeks. You may also experience mild stinging.

Ultimately, it’s not common for azelaic acid to cause skin purging because it is a mild acid. However, if signs of irritation continue, stop using it and consult a skincare expert.

Is vitamin C or azelaic acid better for hyperpigmentation?

Both are effective for hyperpigmentation, but they work in different ways:

• Azelaic acid reduces melanin production, fights acne, and soothes inflammation, making it ideal for post-acne marks and melasma in deeper skin tones.
• Vitamin C brightens the skin and protects against environmental damage, but some forms can be irritating, especially on sensitive or darker skin tones.

If your primary concern is stubborn pigmentation or melasma, azelaic acid is often better tolerated and more effective for long-term use.  For extra brightening, many skincare experts recommend layering both (Vitamin C in the morning, Azelaic Acid at night), as long as your skin can handle it.

What percentage of azelaic acid is effective for hyperpigmentation?

10% (found in most over-the-counter products) is effective for mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and is generally safe for daily use.

On the other hand, 15% to 20% (available by prescription) is more potent and clinically proven to treat conditions like melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation more aggressively.